From snow-capped Andean peaks to the striking crimson landscapes of Red Valley, Club member Angelica’s Peruvian adventure was filled with dramatic scenery, high-altitude challenges and memories to last a lifetime. Discover why the lesser-known Salkantay Trail is a worthy alternative to the famous Inca Trail.
What inspired you to choose the Salkantay Trail and Red Valley, and what were your expectations before you arrived in Peru?
I had always wanted to hike the famous Inca Trail, but I’d heard that it had become quite overcrowded. On one of our YHA hikes, I met Kattia, who is from Peru, and she recommended the Salkantay Trail instead because it’s less known, more challenging and offers absolutely stunning scenery at a higher altitude. Once I saw her photos, I was completely sold.
Was this a guided tour, or did you do this on your own?
I did the trek with Much Better Adventures, a UK-based tour company, which partnered with a local operator called Action Peru Treks. There were twelve of us in total, mostly from the UK and US – no other Aussies this time.
Can you give a brief overview of the Salkantay Trail & Red Valley? Terrain? Distance? No. Days? Altitude? Etc.
The Salkantay Trail is normally around 70km, although we completed closer to 60km because part of the route had recently been affected by landslides. Unlike the Inca Trail, which approaches Machu Picchu from the West, the Salkantay Trail approaches from the South, and reaches a significantly higher altitude. The highest point, Salkantay Pass, sits at 4630m, around 400m higher than the highest point on the Inca Trail. The tour ran over five days, although the final day involved a bus ride to Machu Picchu rather than hiking, so I can’t really count that as a full trekking day!
The Red Valley (Valle Rojo) was a completely different experience and was my acclimatisation day. A dramatic 10km high-altitude hike in the Peruvian Andes near Vinicunca, around 3-4 hours from Cusco. The trail winds through rolling crimson hills, steep ridgelines crunching across volcanic scree dunes reaching a maximum altitude of 5045m. Along the way, you also get views towards Peru’s famous Rainbow Mountain and distant snow-capped Andean peaks that look like crumpled silver foil on the horizon.
What was the most challenging part of the journey, and how did you overcome it?
The toughest section was definitely Day 2 climbing towards Salkantay Pass, where the altitude increased from 4150m to 4630m.
I have generally coped well with altitude in the past and have previously been up to almost 6000m, but this time I wasn’t feeling quite as fit, so I simply took things at a slower pace. I also drank plenty of coca tea and used a local herbal spray, which helped ease the headaches.
Was there a particular moment, view or experience on the Salkantay Trail that will stay with you forever? Why?
After reaching the highest point at the Salkantay Pass and taking the usual group photos and selfies, we suddenly heard an enormous crashing sound in the distance. We quickly realised we were witnessing a live avalanche unfolding in front of us – something I have never seen before. Thankfully it was a safe distance away but was a truly unforgettable moment!
What surprised you most about the trek, the landscape or the people you met along the way?
Even though the trek was shorter than some previous hikes I’ve done, the altitude made it feel much longer. The trail was also busier than I expected, although thankfully it was mostly free of litter.
What surprised me most was the food. We camped and lunched in fairly primitive sites along the trail but were fed like we were staying in a 5-star hotel. Every meal was fresh, varied and absolutely delicious – easily the best food I have had on any hiking trip.
How did Red Valley compare with the Salkantay Trail and the more famous Rainbow Mountain area? What made it special?
The weather was perfect on the day I hiked in Red Valley, whereas the Salkantay Trail had quite a bit of cloud and mist on and off. As a result, I ended up taking some of my favourite photographs in the Red Valley. What made it really special was how quiet it was. Until we reached Rainbow Mountain itself, there was barely anyone else around, so the six of us essentially had the whole valley to ourselves.
Did you have any memorable encounters with local people, fellow hikers or wildlife that added to the experience?
There was not a huge amount of wildlife on either hike, although seeing majestic condors circling overhead near Rainbow Mountain was pretty incredible. The llamas along the trail were also very happy to pose for photos. Along the Salkantay Trail, there were many mules carrying equipment and supplies for the trekking groups, although unfortunately some looked a little worn out from the tough conditions, which was quite sad.
One of the highlights was our final campsite, which was located on a local coffee farm. We got to roast and grind fresh coffee beans straight from the plantation before sampling the coffee ourselves. I don’t normally drink coffee, and this stuff nearly blew my head off!
How does this hike compare with other bushwalks or trekking adventures you’ve done in Australia or overseas?
Every overseas hike I’ve done has been completely different, which is exactly what I enjoy about trekking. Experiencing different landscapes, geology, vegetation and local cultures makes each destination unique.
What was your biggest takeaway from this experience?
My biggest takeaway was wishing I had allowed more time to explore Peru. The country is incredibly vast and diverse, and it’s difficult to do it justice in only two weeks. It’s also a very long journey from Australia, so next time I’d definitely stay longer.
